Frozen continent could be key to Earth's future
Earth's past, present and future come together on the northern peninsula of Antarctica. It is the wildest, most desolate and mysterious of continents.
Clues to answering humanity's most basic questions are locked in this continental freezer. The continent is the size of the United States and half of Canada: Where did we come from? Are we alone in the universe? What's the fate of our warming planet?
The first explorers set foot in Antarctica 194 years ago. They were hunting 19th century riches of whale and seal oil and fur. Since then, the fist-shaped continent has proven a treasure chest for scientists. They are trying to determine everything from the creation of the cosmos to how high seas will rise with global warming.
"It's a window out to the universe and in time," said Kelly Falkner, polar program chief for the U.S. National Science Foundation.
For a dozen days in January, in the middle of the chilly Antarctic summer, The Associated Press followed scientists from different fields. They were searching for alien-like creatures, hints of pollution trapped in ancient ice, leftovers from the Big Bang, biological quirks that potentially could lead to better medical treatments. And perhaps most of all, signs of unstoppable melting.
The journey was aboard a Chilean navy ship along the South Shetland islands and vulnerable Antarctic Peninsula. That land juts off the continent. The trip logged 833 miles. It allowed the AP team a firsthand look at part of this vital continent.
Antarctica conjures up images of quiet mountains and white plateaus. But the coldest, driest and remotest continent is far from dormant. About 98 percent of it is covered by ice. And that ice is constantly moving. Temperatures can range from above zero in the South Shetlands and Antarctic Peninsula to the unbearable frozen lands near the South Pole.
As an active volcano, Deception Island is a pot of extreme conditions. There are spots where the sea boils at 212 degrees Fahrenheit, while in others it can be freezing at below 32. And while the sun rarely shines on the long, dark Antarctic winters, nighttime never seems to fall on summer days.
While tourists come to Antarctica for its beauty and remoteness, scientists are all business. What they find could affect the lives of people thousands of miles away. If experts are right, and the West Antarctic ice sheet has started melting irreversibly, what happens here will determine if cities such as Miami, New York and New Orleans will have to regularly battle flooding from rising seas.
Antarctica "is big and it's changing and it affects the rest of the planet and we can't afford to ignore what's going on down there," said David Vaughan. He is science director of the British Antarctic Survey.
Often, scientists find something other than what they were looking for. Last year researchers calculated that ice on the western side of the continent was melting faster than expected. Last month, scientists researching vital geology in that melting were looking a half mile under the ice in pitch dark. They found a surprise. It was a fish a half foot long and shrimp-like creatures were swimming by their cameras.
Geologists are entranced by Antarctica's secrets. On a recent scientific expedition led by Chile's Antarctic Institute, Richard Spikings, a research geologist at the University of Geneva, wielded a large hammer. He collected rock samples in the South Shetlands and the Antarctic Peninsula. Curious members of a penguin colony on Cape Legoupil watched as he pounded on slabs of black granite and diorite rising out of the southern ocean.
"We're also learning about the real antiquity of the Earth," Spikings said, "and how (continents) were configured together a billion years ago, half a billion years ago, 300 million years ago." He added that the insights will help him understand Antarctica's key role in the jigsaw of ancient super continents. With names like Rodinia, Gondwana and Pangaea, scientists believe they were significant landmasses in Earth's history. They were periodically joined together through the movement of plates.
There is no local industry. Any pollution captured in the pristine ice and snow is from chemicals that traveled from afar, such as low levels of lead found in ice until it was phased out of gasoline. Or radiation levels found from above-ground nuclear tests thousands of miles away and decades ago by the U.S. and the Soviet Union, Vaughan said.
The ice tells how levels of carbon dioxide, the heat-trapping gas, have fluctuated over hundreds of thousands of years. This is also the place where a hole in the ozone layer, from man-made refrigerants and aerosols, periodically parks for a couple months and causes trouble. It happens when sunlight creeps back to Antarctica in August. The light triggers a chemical reaction that destroys ozone molecules, causing a hole that peaks in September and then closes with warmer weather in November.
Because of the pristine nature of the bottom of the world, when a meteorite lands here it stays untouched. So researchers find more meteorites. They often are from Mars, including one discovered nearly 20 years ago. It had scientists initially thinking, incorrectly, they had found proof that life once existed on Mars.
"Antarctica in many ways is like another planet," said Jose Retamales, the director of the Chilean Antarctic Institute.
"It's a completely different world."
Critical thinking challenge: Why are Miami, New York and New Orleans more at risk for flooding that other U.S. cities?